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Beyond the usual in Poitiers and Béziers with Peregrine

The French Journal

2008-4-22 11:30am

In reseaching items for this blog over the past two years, I have learned to anticipate articles by Anthony Peregrine, who contributes to a number of English newspapers. A chief reason for my appreciation: he doesn't cover the usual spots.

For example, for this morning I'll line up two of his articles from The Times (U.K.). The first is a visit to Poitiers, in Poitou-Charentes. This town is not in the least bit trendy; its moment in the sun was several hundred years ago. Yet from that time as a medieval center, when Eleanor of Aquitaine ruled, much remains to do and see. And as Peregrine notes, for lovers of France, there's no greater pleasure than being in a French town, early in the morning, watching it come to life, "...as people open up food shops, swab pavements, take a first coffee of the day and leg it for work. There’s a rooted sense of purpose abroad."

About a month ago, Peregrine wrote another consideration, one of the town of Béziers and the Languedoc. In encouraging his fellow British citizens to take advantage of new airplane routes to the city, Béziers becomes a starting point for a tour of the region. Peregrine guides them (and us) around local ports, beaches, ruins, parks, vineyards; this is a "great place for wandering." A favorite stop is the city of Sète: "There’s a salty atmosphere of honest labour and, as in all ports, shadowy skulduggery...(T)ourism has added sprightlier shops and blow-up dolphins to the mix of ships’ chandlers, classic frontages, cranes and fish soup. ...(Y)ou’ll bump into memories of Georges Brassens, moustachio’d chansonnier and Sète’s most famous son. Say you like him or face the consequences."