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Truffle shortage

Provence from Fayence outwards

2007-12-16 9:04am

Truffles in France might be dying out. Or rather, after a very dry summer, there's a huge shortage that has got everyone talking.

Prices for the best quality large truffles in the bulk market have reached an eye-popping €900 a kilo. And climate change could benefit the Brits: "If it carries on like this, we are all dead," said one truffle producer. "You may find you have truffles in England in 10 years' time...Truffles need moisture in the summer or they die or never develop."

Unfortunately, it's a black art. trufficulteurs may meet, but no one really understands why and how truffles grow. A series of dry summers, and dry winters, especially the blazing summer of 2003, has had a devastating effect on even the cultivated truffles. The legally recorded harvest in France will struggle to reach 15 tonnes this year, compared to 50 tonnes a few years ago (and 1,200 tonnes in the 19th century).

For more, here's a nice piece in the Independent.